
Romania
Alba Iulia
Vauban star fortress, Roman Apulum & cradle of modern Romanian unification
The atlas
709 destination guides — cities, coasts, islands and mountain valleys — each written the way we would brief a friend. Search by place, country or theme — or mark the countries and cities you have been to, guide or not.
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118 destinations

Romania
Vauban star fortress, Roman Apulum & cradle of modern Romanian unification

Romania
Subterranean ice caves, karst gorges & Moți woodcraft highlands

Bulgaria
Queen Marie's seaside palace, exotic cliff gardens & sheer red Kaliakra headlands

Bosnia and Herzegovina
Leafy parks on the emerald Vrbas, Roman Kastel fortress & reconstructed Ferhadija mosque

Bulgaria
UNESCO marble peaks, premier ski resort & traditional stone mehana taverns

Serbia
Where the Sava meets the Danube: historic citadel, vibrant Dorćol streets & storied kafana nights

Bulgaria
Monumental red sandstone towers, Roman Kaleto fortress & Magura prehistoric cave

Albania
Town of a Thousand Windows, hilltop living citadel & UNESCO Ottoman timbered quarters

North Macedonia
Pine forest, a quiet lake & a highland corner the rest of the country drives past

North Macedonia
The city of consuls, a Roman city's mosaics & the oldest national park in the country

Bosnia and Herzegovina
Mystical 16th-century Dervish Tekke, Europe's mightiest karst spring & clifftop medieval fortress

Croatia
White limestone quarries, golden pebble horn & alpine heights

Romania
Carpathian clifftop fortress, Saxon customs pass & Queen Marie's royal retreat

Romania
Transylvanian Gothic spire, Saxon ramparts & Mount Tâmpa cable car

Romania
Monumental palaces, Belle Époque boulevards & leafy garden bistros

Montenegro
Ancient Illyrian walled citadel, cliffside Mogren beaches & pulsating Adriatic nightlife

Montenegro
Royal capital of Montenegro, Biljarda palace & high-mountain gateway to Mount Lovćen

Romania
Transylvanian youth capital, Gothic church & bohemian arts scene

Romania
Black Sea Art Nouveau casino, Roman mosaics & coastal promenades

Romania
Epic Gothic-Renaissance fortress, towering drawbridge & Knight's Hall of John Hunyadi

Romania
UNESCO wetland labyrinth, white pelican colonies & Lipovan fishing hamlets

Kosovo
Banded marble, Gothic doorways & the largest surviving fresco programme of its century

Serbia
Towers on the Danube: monumental Golubac Fortress & the colossal Iron Gates gorge

Croatia
Limestone ramparts, Adriatic light & island escapes

Montenegro
Glacial Black Lake, limestone peaks of Bobotov Kuk & wild Dinaric highlands

Albania
Emperor Trajan's grand Roman amphitheatre, Byzantine coastal walls & sandy Adriatic beaches

Kosovo
A bazaar burned and rebuilt, a 16th-century mosque & a tanners' bridge over the Erenik

Albania
City of Stone, monumental fortress castle & fortified Ottoman tower-mansions

Kosovo
Five domes in striped brick: the high point of late Byzantine church building

Montenegro
City of Fortress Towers, lush botanical gardens & the sunlit gateway to Boka Bay

Albania
Dramatic Ionian coastlines, hilltop castle ruins & secluded pebble canyon coves

Croatia
Venetian piazzas, lavender hills & Pakleni island lagoons

Croatia
Medieval ramparts, oak truffle forests & bohemian art colonies

Bosnia and Herzegovina
Royal medieval citadel, dramatic urban Pliva Waterfall & historic Austro-Hungarian watermills

Bulgaria
Valley of the Thracian Kings, fragrant Damask roses & UNESCO painted tomb

Montenegro
Primeval temperate rainforest, glacial lake reflection & Bjelasica mountain katuns

Bosnia and Herzegovina
Stara Ćuprija stone bridge, secret Tito's Nuclear Bunker & gateway to Neretva white-water rafting

Serbia
Serbia's ski mountain: a high sunny plateau, endemic flowers & the country's tallest waterfall

Bulgaria
Living open-air museum, painted Revival mansions & cradle of the April Uprising

Albania
Paris of Albania, National Museum of Medieval Art & renovated Ottoman bazaar terraces

Croatia
Venetian ramparts, Grk vineyards & Adriatic oyster beds

Montenegro
Fjord-like Boka Bay, medieval Venetian city walls & clifftop San Giovanni fortress

North Macedonia
A mining town inside an extinct volcano, built around stone towers and arched bridges

Bosnia and Herzegovina
Semicircular travertine amphitheatre, roaring 25-metre cascades & emerald swimming lagoon on the Trebižat

Albania
Skanderbeg's mountain citadel, cobblestone artisan bazaar & panoramic Bektashi teqes

North Macedonia
The country's highest town: 1903 in stone and concrete, Aromanian houses & paragliding air

Albania
Turquoise Ionian archipelagos, white sand coves & fresh Lake Butrint mussel farms

Croatia
Habsburg villas, coastal promenades & wild island crags

Montenegro
Southern Europe's largest lake, water lily carpets, Dalmatian pelicans & Crmnica wines

Bosnia and Herzegovina
Bosnia's highest stone village, 800-metre Rakitnica Canyon & ancient pastoral sheep-farming traditions

Romania
Soaring wooden churches, monumental carved gates & the Merry Cemetery

North Macedonia
A dammed limestone gorge half an hour from the capital, with caves, kayaks & a 14th-century church

North Macedonia
A drowned church in a mountain lake, the country's finest wood carving & the Korab ridge

Bulgaria
Bulgaria's smallest town, golden sand pyramids & deep cave wine cellars

Kosovo
A mining city split by a river, and one of the great monuments of Yugoslav modernism

Bosnia and Herzegovina
Stari Most stone arch, turquoise Neretva canyon & Ottoman cobbled lanes of Kujundžiluk

Bulgaria
UNESCO Black Sea peninsula, ancient Mesembria & medieval Byzantine brick churches

Serbia
Birthplace of Constantine: imperial Roman mosaics, Ottoman citadel & southern kafana soul

Serbia
Ottoman bazaar town ringed by the founding monasteries of medieval Serbia

Serbia
Gibraltar on the Danube: Petrovaradin Fortress, Habsburg pastel squares & Vojvodina culture

Kosovo
A silver town that was one of the richest places in the Balkans, now an empty hill

North Macedonia
One of Europe's oldest lakes, a cliff church & a town of Byzantine frescoes

Romania
Art Nouveau jewel, Black Eagle arcade & thermal spa springs

Romania
UNESCO painted monasteries, Voroneț blue & forested Moldavian hills

Croatia
Limestone sea-canyons, world-class climbing & coastal peaks

Kosovo
A gorge road into the Accursed Mountains, and the four-church monastery at its mouth

Montenegro
Baroque captain palaces, twin fjord islets & Our Lady of the Rocks sanctuary

Albania
Europe's first Wild River National Park, Bënjë thermal sulphur baths & walnut gliko preserves

Montenegro
A red-pebble bay, a Venetian sea fort & the quietest stretch of the Budva riviera

Croatia
Sixteen terraced travertine lakes, thundering cascades & beech forests

Bulgaria
Europe's oldest living city, intact Roman theatre & colorful National Revival mansions

Bosnia and Herzegovina
Stone amphitheatre citadel, medieval Sahat Kula clock tower & pomegranate orchards on the Neretva

Montenegro
Modern capital on six rivers, monumental Resurrection cathedral & Europe's largest single vineyard

North Macedonia
A town under a hill of granite boulders, with a medieval fort and a monastery that attracts lightning

Kosovo
Europe's youngest capital: a 1461 mosque, a famously strange library & very good coffee

Kosovo
A river town of mosques, a 14th-century painted church & the most mixed city in Kosovo

Bulgaria
Mythic homeland of Orpheus, deep karst gorges & stone village folklore

Bulgaria
UNESCO spiritual fortress, vivid biblical frescoes & ancient Hrelyo's tower

Croatia
Venetian fishing harbour, pastel alleys & pine-fringed bays

Kosovo
A long border range of high pasture, deep snow & the cheese the whole region eats

Bosnia and Herzegovina
Where East meets West: Ottoman Baščaršija, Austro-Hungarian boulevards & resilient Olympic valley

Albania
UNESCO sanctuary of ancient Butrint, sunset castle views & lively Ionian harbourfront

Bulgaria
Glacial alpine tarns, panoramic ridge trails & high Rila cirques

Albania
Legendary Illyrian Rozafa fortress, cycling along Lake Shkodra & Marubi photographic archive

Croatia
Renaissance stone cathedral, sea fortresses & cascading waterfalls

Romania
Rooftop eyes, Saxon guild bastions & the Bridge of Lies

Romania
UNESCO citadel, guild watchtowers & the Scholars' Covered Stairs

Romania
Royal Alpine palace, Bucegi cable car & Prahova mountain retreats

North Macedonia
Ottoman bazaar, a river of monuments & a city rebuilt twice in one century

Bulgaria
Gold-domed Neo-Byzantine cathedral, Roman Serdica ruins & Mount Vitosha backdrop

Serbia
Vojvodina's greenest town: nettle-tree avenues, a baroque county hall & Konjović's colour

Bulgaria
Ancient Apollonia, wooden cliffside houses & idyllic sandy coves

Croatia
Roman palace living, Venetian stone & Dalmatian island hub

Serbia
Baroque wine capital, historic Serbian Patriarchate & the serene monasteries of Fruška Gora

Serbia
White marble churches, coronation monasteries & a cliff fortress in the Ibar valley

Serbia
Fairy-tale Hungarian Secession architecture, Zsolnay ceramics & tranquil Lake Palić

Bosnia and Herzegovina
Perućica primeval rainforest, Mount Maglić summit & the modernist Battle of the Sutjeska monument

Montenegro
Fortified fifteenth-century stone island, pink sand tombolo & royal olive groves of Miločer

Serbia
Emerald canyon river, ancient Pančić spruce forests & dizzying cliffside viewpoints

Montenegro
Europe's deepest river canyon, arched Đurđevića Tara bridge & world-class white water rafting

Albania
Alpine stone lock-in towers, limestone gorges & dramatic hiking in the Accursed Mountains

North Macedonia
A Roman city on the Vardar, the country's biggest wine region & a lake with a monastery on it

Romania
Habsburg Baroque squares, Art Nouveau palaces & spark of the 1989 Revolution

Albania
Pastel Ottoman relics, cold war subterranean bunkers & pulsating Blloku terraces

Romania
High Carpathian switchbacks, glacial Bâlea Lake & alpine ridge trails

Bosnia and Herzegovina
City of Viziers, medieval fortress citadel & the painted floral Šarena Džamija

Bosnia and Herzegovina
Mediterranean sunlight, 16th-century Arslanagić Bridge & ancient wine cellars on the Trebišnjica

Montenegro
Pirate citadel, 13km sandy Velika Plaža & bohemian delta huts of Ada Bojana

Bosnia and Herzegovina
Emerald karst river canyon, thundering Štrbački Buk waterfalls & white-water rafting in Una National Park

Serbia
Entrenched river meanders, a griffon vulture colony & the high cold Pešter plateau

Albania
Glacial river valley, jagged karst peaks & traditional high-altitude shepherd katuns

Bulgaria
Sea Capital, world's oldest gold treasure & vast seaside Sea Garden

Bulgaria
City of the Tsars, monumental Tsarevets fortress & dramatic Yantra river gorge

Croatia
Remote island solitude, naval secrets & glowing sea caves

Albania
Birthplace of Albanian independence, sheltered bay waters & pine-fringed Narta lagoon

Croatia
Sea organ melodies, Roman stones & the lunar Kornati islands

Croatia
Austro-Hungarian avenues, vibrant café life & quirky museums

Serbia
Pine highland meadows, a narrow-gauge railway that loops on itself & smoked ham from Mačkat