In 60 seconds
Rising dramatically above the mist-covered river valleys and terraced vineyards of inland Istria, this constellation of fortified medieval hilltop villages is often called Croatian Tuscany. Motovun crowns a conical 277-metre hill with intact 13th-century ramparts overlooking the legendary Motovun truffle forest. Nearby Grožnjan thrives as an inspiring artists' haven filled with classical music ateliers, while Buzet reigns as the world capital of white truffles.
Best for
Known for
Skip if
You require sandy beaches and bustling Adriatic nightlife; this region is dedicated to slow food, forested valleys, boutique wine estates and stone quietude.
Your match
Choose a few travel interests and we will show how well Istrian Hill Towns fits them. Choose interests
See
The things that would make the trip incomplete without them.
13th-century stone battlements circling a 277-metre hilltop peak
Walk the complete circuit of the high stone ramparts for sweeping vistas over patchwork vineyards, olive groves and the dense Mirna river forest.
14th-century stone village reborn as a vibrant colony of painters, sculptors and musicians
Stroll along ivy-draped cobbled alleys filled with classical violin music drifting from open windows and explore dozens of independent artisan studios.
Walled hilltop settlement above the Mirna canyon · Historic centre of the Istrian truffle hunt
Wander through the massive 16th-century stone town gate to admire Renaissance palaces and sample world-famous Istrian truffles in traditional cellars.
Atmospheric, half-forgotten hilltop village with Venetian loggia and cypress avenue
Approach along a grand avenue of Italian cypresses to explore sleepy Venetian facades and enjoy tranquil vistas over the Mirna valley.
Medieval walled settlement of roughly 30 residents with Romanesque watchtower and Biska brandy
Pass through the bronze town gate to walk the tiny twin cobbled streets and taste traditional mistletoe-infused Biska grappa.
Damp oak forests hiding prized white truffles and converted narrow-gauge railway trail
Hike or cycle through former railway tunnels and viaducts on the historic Parenzana path winding between hill towns above the valley floor.
Eat
A short list, kept short on purpose. Each entry answers one question: when is this the right choice?
Where to eat the food this city is actually known for.
Celebrated intimate stone tavern at the foot of Motovun's upper gate
A temple to fresh black and white truffles, famously shaved tableside over velvety polenta, homemade fuži pasta and beef carpaccio.
Panoramic terrace restaurant set into Buzet's medieval stone battlements
Enjoy handmade pljukanci pasta with wild asparagus or braised Boškarin ox stew while admiring breathtaking valley views from the terrace.
Charming stone konoba with shaded garden terrace in artist village Grožnjan
A delightfully unhurried village stop serving traditional Istrian maneštra bean soup, prosciutto, local sheep cheese and truffle pasta.
Too few picks yet for their own heading, so they share this list.
Fine dining truffle destination founded by Guinness World Record truffle hunter Giancarlo Zigante
Dedicated exclusively to high-end truffle gastronomy, offering exquisite multi-course tasting menus matched with premium Istrian Teran and Malvazija.
Clifftop café terrace built directly into the upper ramparts of Motovun
The ultimate viewpoint for morning cappuccino or evening local craft beer, gazing out over rolling green hills towards the Adriatic.
Beyond the obvious
Less obvious, rarely queued for, and usually the part people remember.
Abandoned stone village where the Mirna river carved limestone waterfalls and turquoise tubs
A magical hidden canyon where clear water tumbles through circular limestone hollows beside a 19th-century wooden watermill.
After dark
Striking contemporary architectural winery hotel carved into the foot of Motovun hill
Tour subterranean barrel aging caves and taste natural skin-contact orange wines on a designer terrace overlooking the vines.
Orientation
How the city is actually divided, and what each part is for.
The iconic fortified hill crown rising high above the valley
Dynamic and atmospheric, boasting top truffle eateries, summer film festival buzz and dramatic circular stone rampart walks.
The car-free bohemian art and classical music sanctuary
Peaceful, creative and exceptionally well-preserved, brimming with independent art galleries, jazz studios and scenic alleyways.
The rugged northern gateway and premier truffle hunting woodland
Perfect for outdoor adventurers, rock climbers tackling the Buzet crags and food lovers joining autumn truffle hunts.
Stay
Areas rather than hotels — pick the right one and the rest follows.
Boutique heritage hotels and medieval stone apartments inside the gates
Wake up above the morning valley mist with panoramic vineyard vistas right from your bedroom window.
Restored stone farmhouses and rural agriturismi with swimming pools
Maximum tranquility surrounded by olive groves and rolling hills, ideal for families and couples exploring by car.
Valley floor wine estates and cycling-friendly guest lodges
Direct access to the Parenzana cycling trail and premier truffle hunting outfits, with easy level driving access.
Practical
Plan this trip — useful links
Context
Enough to make what you are looking at legible.
Venice fortifies Motovun and Grožnjan with thick stone walls and towers to safeguard the valuable timber of the Mirna oak forest for Venetian shipyards.
The narrow-gauge Parenzana railway operates between Trieste and Poreč, transporting wine, olive oil and produce through the Istrian hills.
Grožnjan, nearly abandoned post-war, is officially declared a 'Town of Artists'; sculptors, painters and musicians restore its stone houses into ateliers.
Further out
Worth a day if you have one to spare.
Venetian fishing port on the western Adriatic coast
Drive down to the coast for an afternoon of swimming along the Golden Cape and dining on fresh Adriatic fish in Rovinj harbour.
Medieval fortress perched dramatically above a 100-metre limestone subterranean abyss
Inspect the dramatic chasm that inspired Jules Verne's novels and soar across the gorge on an exhilarating zip-line.
