Traveleriences
Varberg's Moorish-style cold-bath house on stilts in the sea at sunset

Varberg, Sweden

Ideal: 2 daysBest: May–SepPrice: Expensive

In 60 seconds

Varberg in 60 seconds

Varberg is the west coast's favourite seaside town, an hour south of Gothenburg. Its granite fortress, begun in the 1280s, stands on the shore with the town museum inside — where the Bocksten Man, a murdered 14th-century traveller found in a bog with his clothes intact, is the star. Below it, the onion-domed Kallbadhuset of 1903 stands on stilts in the sea: take a sauna and climb down the ladder into the Kattegat, in any month. A promenade runs south along the rocks to Apelviken, the bay where Swedes learn to windsurf and kitesurf. Inland, the Grimeton radio station still has the only working long-wave transmitter of its kind, a UNESCO site; to the south, the fishing harbour of Träslövsläge sells the day's catch. Two days, in summer or out of it.

FortressSaunaSurfingSeafood

Best for

  • Coast
  • Food
  • Weekend

Known for

  • Varberg Fortress
  • Kallbadhuset
  • The Bocksten Man
  • Apelviken

Skip if

You want a long sandy beach to lie on — Varberg's shore is mostly rocks and bays; for sand, head south to Halland's long beaches.

Your match

Choose a few travel interests and we will show how well Varberg fits them. Choose interests

See

Must experience

The things that would make the trip incomplete without them.

Varberg Fortress & Museum

Moderate

Medieval castle turned sea fortress

Walk the ramparts over the sea, then meet the Bocksten Man in the museum, his hood, cloak and hose the best-preserved medieval clothes in Europe.

FästningenHistoryMuseum

Kallbadhuset

Moderate

Moorish-style cold-bath house · 1903

Onion domes on stilts in the sea, with saunas and ladders straight down into the Kattegat; separate sections for men and women.

FästningenSaunaYear-round

Strandpromenaden to Apelviken

Coast walk south of the fortress

About three kilometres along the rocks and bathing places to Apelviken, the bay full of windsurfers and kitesurfers whenever the wind blows.

ApelvikenFreeSurf

Eat

Where to eat

A short list, kept short on purpose. Each entry answers one question: when is this the right choice?

More places to eat

Too few picks yet for their own heading, so they share this list.

Beyond the obvious

Hidden gems

Less obvious, rarely queued for, and usually the part people remember.

Getterön nature reserve

Wetlands full of birds north of the harbour

Shallow lagoons and meadows where waders and geese gather in their thousands in spring and autumn; hides and a visitor centre by the water.

GetterönBirdsFree

Träslövsläge

Working fishing harbour south of the town

Trawlers, a fish shop and a restaurant on the quay; buy prawns straight from the boats.

TräslövslägeHarbourSeafood

After dark

Bars & nightlife

Bar Glou Glou

Expensive

Small natural-wine bar

A cosy, minimalist room of natural wines on Kyrkogatan; few seats, so go early.

CentrumSmallWine

Orientation

Neighbourhoods

How the city is actually divided, and what each part is for.

Town centre & fortress

Wooden houses, squares and the shore

Everything is within a short walk: the square, the fortress, the bath house and the start of the promenade.

Apelviken

Surf bay and campsites

Sand, surf schools, a big campsite and a spa hotel, a pleasant walk south of the town.

Stay

Where to stay

Areas rather than hotels — pick the right one and the rest follows.

Town centre

Expensive

Hotels near the station and the sea

Arrive by train and walk to everything.

TrainsWalkable

Apelviken

Expensive

Spa hotel, cabins and camping by the bay

For a summer week by the water and a morning surf lesson.

BeachFamilies

Practical

Know before you go

Getting in
Trains on the west coast line take about 45 minutes from Gothenburg and two and a half hours from Copenhagen.
Getting around
Walk or cycle; the promenade and the coast path are made for bikes.
Sauna
Kallbadhuset is open year-round; winter bathing, with the sea at a few degrees, is a Swedish rite.
When to go
May to September for swimming and surfing, but the fortress, sauna and seafood make a fine winter weekend.
Taste locally
West Coast prawns, fish straight from the boats at Träslövsläge, and Halland's farm produce.
Combine with
Gothenburg, Åkulla's beech woods and the Fjärås ridge and Tjolöholm to the north.

Context

History in 5 minutes

Enough to make what you are looking at legible.

  1. 1280s

    A castle is built on the shore, one of a chain guarding the Danish coast of Halland.

  2. 1645

    Halland passes from Denmark to Sweden, first for thirty years and then, from 1658, for good; the castle becomes a Swedish fortress.

  3. 1903

    The Moorish-style Kallbadhuset is built in the sea below the fortress.

  4. 1924

    Grimeton radio station opens, carrying telegrams across the Atlantic.

  5. 1936

    The Bocksten Man is found in a bog near Varberg, still dressed in his medieval clothes.

Further out

Nearby escapes

Worth a day if you have one to spare.

Åkulla's beech woods

Ancient beech forest and lakes inland

Rolling beech woods, grazing sheep and forest lakes — Åkulla Bokskogar has its own guide.

25 min by carForestHiking

Falkenberg & Skrea strand

A long sandy beach to the south

Three kilometres of sand and a pier for the beach day Varberg's rocks cannot give you.

25 min by train or carBeachSwimming