Traveleriences
Gabled and painted houses around Lilla torg in Malmö's old town

Malmö, Sweden

Ideal: 2 daysBest: May–Sep, DecPrice: Expensive

In 60 seconds

Malmö in 60 seconds

Malmö is the most international city in Sweden — about a third of its people were born abroad — and the Öresund Bridge puts Copenhagen 35 minutes away by train. Begin in the old town, where Stortorget and half-timbered Lilla torg date from the centuries of Danish rule, then cross the castle parks to Malmöhus, the Renaissance fortress that now holds the city's museums. West of the centre a shipyard became the Western Harbour, a seafront district under Calatrava's twisting Turning Torso: swim off the boardwalk steps at Scaniabadet, or take a sauna and a cold plunge at Ribersborgs Kallbadhus, the open-air bath on a pier since 1898. Eat falafel, the city's unofficial dish, around Möllevångstorget. Two days is right; Lund is ten minutes away.

CityCoastMulticultural

Best for

  • Food
  • Design
  • Weekend

Known for

  • The Öresund Bridge
  • Turning Torso
  • Ribersborgs Kallbadhus
  • Falafel

Skip if

You want grand monuments and a full museum programme — Malmö is a city to live in for a weekend, not a sightseeing marathon, and Copenhagen is next door for that.

Your match

Choose a few travel interests and we will show how well Malmö fits them. Choose interests

See

Must experience

The things that would make the trip incomplete without them.

Malmöhus Castle

Moderate

Renaissance castle in the castle parks

Built for the Danish crown in the 1530s and ringed by its moat; today it houses the city museums, from natural history and an aquarium to the castle's own rooms.

SlottsparkenCastleMuseums

Stortorget & Lilla torg

The old town's two squares

Stortorget is the grand one, faced by the 16th-century town hall; Lilla torg, a minute away, is cobbled, half-timbered and full of outdoor tables from spring to autumn.

Gamla stadenFreeOld Town

Western Harbour & Turning Torso

A shipyard turned seafront district

Walk the Sundspromenaden boardwalk beneath Santiago Calatrava's twisting 190-metre tower; on summer evenings half the city swims off the steps at Scaniabadet.

Västra hamnenArchitectureFree

Ribersborgs Kallbadhus

Moderate

Open-air sea bath and saunas on a pier · Since 1898

Sauna, a plunge into the Öresund, and back again, with separate sections for men and women. Open all year — winter, with the sea steaming, is the time to go.

RibersborgSaunaYear-round

Eat

Where to eat

A short list, kept short on purpose. Each entry answers one question: when is this the right choice?

Casual

No booking, no ceremony, reliably good.

Jalla Jalla

Inexpensive

Falafel counter

One of the city's best-loved falafel places; order it in bread with everything, and eat standing up like everyone else.

MöllevångenCheapFalafel

Saltimporten Canteen

Moderate

Weekday lunch in a dockside salt warehouse

A short daily menu served at a counter and eaten at a long shared table by the water. Lunch only, weekdays only, and worth planning around.

NyhamnenLunchNordic

Coffee & fika

Mornings, and the slow hour between things.

Lilla Kafferosteriet

Inexpensive

Roastery café in an old house

Rambling rooms over two floors and a cobbled back courtyard, a few steps from Lilla torg. Coffee roasted by its own people.

Gamla stadenCoffeeCourtyard

St Jakobs Stenugnsbageri

Inexpensive

Stone-oven bakery

Sourdough and properly buttery cardamom and cinnamon buns; take them to Kungsparken.

CentrumBakeryBuns

More places to eat

Too few picks yet for their own heading, so they share this list.

Vollmers

Very expensive

Two Michelin stars · Skåne produce

Mats Vollmer's tasting menu, built on Skåne's farms and coast, in a 19th-century townhouse. Malmö's grandest meal.

CentrumBook aheadTasting menu

Beyond the obvious

Hidden gems

Less obvious, rarely queued for, and usually the part people remember.

Möllevångstorget

Market square of the city's most mixed district

A fruit and vegetable market most days, falafel counters and grocers from a dozen countries, and the bars of 'Möllan' once the stalls pack up.

MöllevångenFoodFree

Slottsträdgården

Organic garden in the castle park

Small themed gardens of vegetables, herbs and flowers beside the old windmill, with a garden café for a slow lunch.

SlottsparkenFreeGarden

Limhamn harbour & lime quarry

Fishing harbour and a vast old quarry

Look down into the enormous former limestone quarry, now a nature reserve, then walk to the harbour for smoked fish and a swim off the jetties.

LimhamnCoastNature

After dark

Bars & nightlife

Far i Hatten

Moderate

Bar, stage and garden in Folkets Park

A wooden pavilion in the people's park with a garden bar, concerts and club nights; the summer evening crowd spills onto the lawns.

MöllevångenLive musicSummer

Care/of

Expensive

Tiny award-winning cocktail bar

A handful of seats beside a barber's shop and some of the best-made classics in Sweden; reserve.

FiskehamnenBook aheadCocktails

BISe

Expensive

Wine and cocktail bar in the centre

A restaurant and bar with seasonal twists on the classics, good for a drink before dinner in the old town.

CentrumCocktailsWine

Orientation

Neighbourhoods

How the city is actually divided, and what each part is for.

Gamla staden

The old town between the canals

The squares, St Peter's church and the shopping streets, all inside the ring of canals and walkable in twenty minutes.

Möllevången

Market, falafel and the city's nightlife

'Möllan' is the city's mixed, student-heavy heart: groceries by day, cheap food and bars by night.

Västra hamnen

Seafront district on the old shipyard

Car-free promenades, swimming steps and sunsets over the bridge; where Malmö goes on a warm evening.

Stay

Where to stay

Areas rather than hotels — pick the right one and the rest follows.

Old town & Central Station

Expensive

Walk to everything, train to the airport

Best for a short stay or a Copenhagen day trip: Copenhagen Airport is about 20 minutes away by train.

TrainsWalkable

Västra hamnen

Expensive

Sea views by the beach

Hotels and apartments by the water, a short bus ride or 25-minute walk from the old town.

QuietSea

Practical

Know before you go

Getting in
Trains from Copenhagen Airport reach Malmö Central in about 20 minutes; Stockholm is around four and a half hours by fast train.
Getting around
The centre is walkable and very flat — rent a bike. City buses take the same Skånetrafiken app tickets as the trains.
Border
Carry ID when crossing to Denmark: border checks on the bridge come and go.
Money
Swedish kronor. Cards and phones are accepted almost everywhere; some places take no cash at all.
When to go
May to September for swimming and terraces; December for Christmas markets and the sauna at its best.
Taste locally
Falafel in Möllevången, Skåne's äggakaka and spettekaka, and new Nordic cooking built on Skåne's farms.
Combine with
Lund (10 min by train), Copenhagen, Trelleborg & Smygehuk and Österlen.

Context

History in 5 minutes

Enough to make what you are looking at legible.

  1. 1200s

    Malmö grows up as a Danish trading town on the Öresund, in the age of the great Scanian herring markets.

  2. 1530s

    The Danish king rebuilds Malmöhus as a fortified Renaissance castle.

  3. 1658

    The Treaty of Roskilde hands Skåne, and Malmö with it, from Denmark to Sweden.

  4. 2000

    The Öresund Bridge opens, joining Malmö to Copenhagen by road and rail.

  5. 2002

    The Kockums crane, symbol of the closed shipyard, is sold and shipped to South Korea; the Western Harbour rises in its place.

Further out

Nearby escapes

Worth a day if you have one to spare.

Copenhagen

Denmark's capital across the Öresund Bridge

Trains cross the bridge every few minutes at busy times; Malmö and Copenhagen are really one region with two currencies.

35 min by trainCityDenmark

Skanör & Falsterbo

White beaches and bird migration at Sweden's south-west tip

Bathing huts, dunes and the Flommen wetlands; in September millions of migrating birds funnel over the peninsula.

40 min by bus or carBeachesBirds

Lund

Cathedral and university town

A Romanesque cathedral, a 17th-century university and student life — Lund has its own guide.

10 min by trainHistoryUniversity