Traveleriences
Blowpipes heating at the glowing furnace of the Bergdala glassworks

Glasriket, Sweden

Ideal: 2 daysBest: May–SepPrice: Moderate

In 60 seconds

Glasriket in 60 seconds

Glasriket — the Kingdom of Crystal — is a stretch of Småland forest between Växjö and Kalmar where glass has been blown since 1742. Wood for the furnaces, sand and cheap labour built dozens of glassworks here; a handful still work, and in their hot shops you stand a few metres from the furnace while masters gather, blow and shape molten glass. Kosta, the oldest, has a hotel full of glass art; Målerås lets you try blowing yourself; The Glass Factory in Boda shows the best of a century of Swedish design. In between are lakes, red cottages and the deep woods that so many left: between 1850 and 1930 more than a million Swedes emigrated, many from Småland, and the House of Emigrants in Växjö tells their story. Eat hyttsill — herring cooked in the furnace's heat — on a glassworks evening. Two days by car.

CraftForestCountryside

Best for

  • Design
  • Hidden gems

Known for

  • Glassblowing
  • Kosta Boda
  • Hyttsill
  • Emigrant history

Skip if

You have no car — the glassworks are spread through the forest and buses are rare — or no interest in craft: this is a region of workshops and woods, not sights.

Your match

Choose a few travel interests and we will show how well Glasriket fits them. Choose interests

See

Must experience

The things that would make the trip incomplete without them.

Eat

Where to eat

A short list, kept short on purpose. Each entry answers one question: when is this the right choice?

More places to eat

Too few picks yet for their own heading, so they share this list.

Hyttsill evenings

Moderate

Herring cooked in the glass furnace

Glassblowers once cooked supper in the furnace's leftover heat; the glassworks keep the tradition with herring, potatoes, isterband and live glassblowing.

GlasriketBook aheadTradition

Beyond the obvious

Hidden gems

Less obvious, rarely queued for, and usually the part people remember.

Magma Art Glass

Studio glass in the forest at Transjö

A small studio founded by two Kosta masters in 1982, formerly Transjö Hytta; unique pieces and a quiet gallery in the woods.

TransjöShopStudio glass

Bergdala

Glassworks with a wooden blowing room

The last glassworks whose hot shop is built entirely of wood — the look of the industry a century ago.

BergdalaGlassblowingHistoric

Lessebo paper mill

Paper still made by hand

One of very few mills in the world still making paper by hand, sheet by sheet; tours show the whole process.

LesseboCraftTours

Orientation

Neighbourhoods

How the city is actually divided, and what each part is for.

Kosta

The glass village

Glassworks, galleries, the art hotel and a large outlet in one small forest village.

Stay

Where to stay

Areas rather than hotels — pick the right one and the rest follows.

Kosta

Expensive

The art hotel and cottages

The obvious base, central to the glassworks and with somewhere to eat in the evening.

DesignSpa

Växjö

Moderate

Lake town with trains

A small cathedral city on a lake, with the House of Emigrants and a choice of restaurants; about 45 minutes from Kosta.

RestaurantsTrains

Practical

Know before you go

Getting in
Trains reach Växjö and Kalmar from Stockholm and Copenhagen; from either, you need a car.
Opening times
Most glassworks blow on weekdays and keep shorter hours out of summer; check Glasriket's site before setting out.
When to go
May to September, when the hot shops, cafés and hyttsill evenings are all running.
Family history
If your family left Småland, book time at the House of Emigrants' research centre in Växjö in advance.
Taste locally
Hyttsill, Småland isterband and ostkaka with jam and cream.
Combine with
Kalmar and Öland to the east, Gränna and Vättern to the north.

Context

History in 5 minutes

Enough to make what you are looking at legible.

  1. 1742

    Kosta glassworks is founded, named after two county governors, Koskull and Stael von Holstein.

  2. 1850–1930

    More than a million Swedes emigrate, a great many of them from Småland's poor forest farms.

  3. 1898

    Orrefors glassworks is founded; artists soon join the craftsmen and Swedish glass becomes world-famous.

  4. 1949

    Vilhelm Moberg publishes The Emigrants, the first of his novels about Småland farmers who leave for Minnesota.

Further out

Nearby escapes

Worth a day if you have one to spare.

Kalmar

Castle town on the Baltic

A Renaissance castle and a walled old town; carry on over the bridge to Öland.

1 hr by car from KostaCastleCoast