Traveleriences
The Grand Canal and Santa Maria della Salute in Venice

Venice, Italy

Ideal: 2–3 daysBest: Mar–May, Oct–NovPrice: Very expensive

In 60 seconds

Venice in 60 seconds

Venice is everything it is said to be, and it is crowded in exactly the places you have heard of. The answer is timing and direction: St Mark's at opening, the Accademia mid-morning, and the rest of the day in Cannaregio, Castello and Dorsoduro, where Venetians still live and eat cicchetti standing at the bar. Walk rather than ride — the city crosses on foot in under an hour — and keep a vaporetto pass for the Grand Canal and the islands. Day visitors pay an access fee on peak days; overnight guests do not. Stay at least one night — the city after the day visitors leave is the reason to come. Two or three days, with a morning on the lagoon islands.

ArtRomance

Best for

  • Architecture
  • History
  • Museums
  • Luxury

Known for

  • Canals and gondolas
  • St Mark's Basilica
  • Cicchetti

Skip if

Crowds and high prices would spoil it. Summer days in the centre are packed, and day visitors pay an access fee on some dates.

Your match

Choose a few travel interests and we will show how well Venice fits them. Choose interests

See

Must experience

The things that would make the trip incomplete without them.

Eat

Where to eat

A short list, kept short on purpose. Each entry answers one question: when is this the right choice?

Local

Where to eat the food this city is actually known for.

Antiche Carampane

Expensive

Classic Venetian seafood

A family-run trattoria in a San Polo backstreet, cooking fish from the Rialto market. Book ahead.

San PoloBook aheadSeafood

La Zucca

Moderate

Vegetable-led osteria

A daily-changing menu where vegetables lead, by a canal in Santa Croce; the pumpkin flan is the signature.

Santa CroceCanalVegetarian-friendly

Trattoria al Gatto Nero

Expensive

Lagoon fish on Burano

Fish and seafood from the lagoon, on the island of Burano — the reason to stay for lunch.

BuranoIslandSeafood

Casual

No booking, no ceremony, reliably good.

Orient Experience

Inexpensive

Afghan and Middle Eastern platters

Generous, affordable platters cooked by a team of refugee cooks, in San Polo.

San PoloCasualCheap

Oke

Inexpensive

Pizzeria on the Zattere

Good pizza with organic ingredients, and tables on the Zattere waterfront.

DorsoduroPizzaWaterfront

Taverna La Fenice

Moderate

Trattoria behind the opera house

A long-standing taverna behind La Fenice, known for its risotto.

San MarcoClassicRisotto

Special occasion

Worth planning the evening around.

Quadri

Very expensive

Alajmo brothers' restaurant on St Mark's Square

A Michelin-starred dining room above the square's historic café, under Murano glass chandeliers.

San MarcoBook aheadView

Venissa

Very expensive

Island vineyard restaurant

A Michelin-starred tasting menu beside a walled vineyard on Mazzorbo, next to Burano.

MazzorboBook aheadIsland

Al Covo

Very expensive

Family restaurant · Adriatic fish

A family-owned restaurant in Castello since 1987, cooking Adriatic fish and lagoon vegetables.

CastelloBook aheadSeafood

Coffee & fika

Mornings, and the slow hour between things.

Rosa Salva

Inexpensive

Historic Venetian pasticceria

A historic Venetian pastry shop for an espresso and a pastry at the counter; the branch on Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo is the classic.

CastelloPastriesStanding

Beyond the obvious

Hidden gems

Less obvious, rarely queued for, and usually the part people remember.

Scala Contarini del Bovolo

Inexpensive

Spiral staircase tower

A Renaissance spiral staircase hidden in a courtyard, with a small view over the rooftops from the top.

San MarcoArchitectureView

San Giorgio Maggiore

Inexpensive

Palladio's island church · Bell tower

Take the vaporetto across for Palladio's church and the bell tower view back at St Mark's, without the queue.

San GiorgioQuietView

The Venetian Ghetto

The first ghetto · Synagogues

The quarter that gave the world the word, with its tall houses, synagogues and a quiet campo in Cannaregio.

CannaregioHistoryQuiet

After dark

Bars & nightlife

Harry's Bar

Very expensive

Birthplace of the Bellini · 1931

The small, plain room by the San Marco waterfront where the Bellini was invented. Pricey, and an institution.

San MarcoCocktailsHistoric

Orientation

Neighbourhoods

How the city is actually divided, and what each part is for.

Cannaregio

Canals where Venetians live

Long canal-side fondamente, the Ghetto and the city's best evenings out.

Dorsoduro

Galleries and the Zattere

The Accademia, the Guggenheim and the sunny Zattere waterfront.

Castello

The Arsenale and quiet campi

The old shipyards, the Biennale gardens and the most local corner of the city.

Stay

Where to stay

Areas rather than hotels — pick the right one and the rest follows.

San Marco

Very expensive

The centre

Steps from the basilica, at the highest prices and with the most people.

BusyCentral

Dorsoduro

Expensive

Galleries, calmer evenings

Close to the museums and the vaporetto, quieter at night.

ArtQuieter

Cannaregio

Expensive

Near the station, local feel

Easy to reach with luggage, with good bars and restaurants on the fondamente.

LocalValue

Practical

Know before you go

Getting in
From Marco Polo airport, buses run to Piazzale Roma and Alilaguna boats to the city; trains arrive at Santa Lucia station.
Getting around
Walk, and use the vaporetto water buses; a travel card for several days saves money.
Money
Euro. Cards are widely accepted.
Access fee
Day visitors pay an access fee on certain dates; overnight guests are exempt. Check the city's site before you go.

Context

History in 5 minutes

Enough to make what you are looking at legible.

  1. 697–1797

    The Republic of Venice rules a trading empire for eleven centuries.

  2. 1516

    Venice confines its Jewish population to the Ghetto, the first in the world to bear the name.

  3. 1987

    Venice and its lagoon are inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Further out

Nearby escapes

Worth a day if you have one to spare.

Murano

The glass island

Glass furnaces and the Glass Museum, a short vaporetto ride from Fondamente Nove.

By vaporettoGlassHalf day

Burano

Lace and coloured houses

Brightly painted houses and lace-making, further out in the lagoon. Lunch here, not dinner.

By vaporettoColourfulHalf day

Torcello

The lagoon's first settlement

A near-empty island with a Byzantine cathedral and mosaics, the quietest place in the lagoon.

By vaporetto via BuranoHistoryQuiet

Go further

Routes through Venice

Multi-city trips that stop here, with the transport between them.