Traveleriences
Palermo Cathedral's Arab-Norman facade and dome among palm trees

Palermo, Italy

Ideal: 3 daysBest: Apr–Jun, Sep–OctPrice: Moderate

In 60 seconds

Palermo in 60 seconds

Palermo is Sicily's capital and its most intense city: Phoenician, Arab, Norman, Spanish and baroque layers piled on top of each other, peeling and magnificent. In the 12th century Norman kings employed Byzantine and Arab craftsmen, and the result — the gold-mosaic Palatine Chapel in the royal palace, the cathedral, and the mountain-top cathedral at Monreale — is a UNESCO World Heritage Site unlike anything else in Europe. The markets of Ballarò and the Capo are noisy, theatrical and full of food: arancine, panelle, sfincione and the spleen sandwich, pane ca' meusa, for the brave. The Teatro Massimo is Italy's largest opera house, and Mondello's beach is a bus ride away. Give it three days, and accept the chaos as part of the pleasure.

Street foodMarketsUNESCO

Best for

  • History
  • Food
  • Hidden gems

Known for

  • Arab-Norman mosaics
  • Street food
  • Ballarò market
  • Teatro Massimo

Skip if

You find noise, traffic and crumbling façades stressful — Palermo is gloriously alive, but never tidy.

Your match

Choose a few travel interests and we will show how well Palermo fits them. Choose interests

See

Must experience

The things that would make the trip incomplete without them.

Palazzo dei Normanni & Palatine Chapel

Moderate

Royal palace with a gold-mosaic chapel

Byzantine mosaics, an Arab carved-wood ceiling and Norman marble in one small chapel — the high point of Arab-Norman art.

AlbergheriaMosaicsUNESCO

Palermo Cathedral

A cathedral of many centuries

Norman towers, Gothic porch and a neoclassical dome; climb to the roof for the view over the city.

CassaroFreeUNESCO

Ballarò market

The city's oldest street market

Swordfish, aubergines and shouting stallholders by day; grills of stigghiola smoking at dusk.

AlbergheriaMarketStreet food

Teatro Massimo

Moderate

Italy's largest opera house

Take the guided tour of the neoclassical theatre, or better, a seat for an evening performance.

CentroOperaTours

Eat

Where to eat

A short list, kept short on purpose. Each entry answers one question: when is this the right choice?

More places to eat

Too few picks yet for their own heading, so they share this list.

Beyond the obvious

Hidden gems

Less obvious, rarely queued for, and usually the part people remember.

Monreale Cathedral

Inexpensive

Gold mosaics above the city

Some 6,000 square metres of golden mosaic and a cloister of carved paired columns, half an hour up the hill.

MonrealeMosaicsUNESCO

Capuchin Catacombs

Inexpensive

Corridors of preserved dead

Thousands of mummified Palermitani dressed in their best, hanging along the walls — unforgettable and not for everyone.

CappucciniMacabreUnusual

Orientation

Neighbourhoods

How the city is actually divided, and what each part is for.

Kalsa

The old Arab quarter by the sea

Churches, palazzi and the Foro Italico promenade; lively squares at night.

Quattro Canti

The baroque crossroads

Four curved baroque façades where Via Maqueda crosses the Cassaro — the centre of the old city.

Stay

Where to stay

Areas rather than hotels — pick the right one and the rest follows.

Centro storico

Moderate

Around the Quattro Canti and Via Maqueda

Stay in the old city to walk to the markets and monuments.

LivelyWalkable

Practical

Know before you go

Getting in
Trains from Falcone-Borsellino airport reach the centre in under an hour; ferries arrive from Naples and Genoa.
Getting around
Walk; the old city is compact. Do not drive in Palermo.
When to go
Spring and autumn; July and August are very hot.
Taste locally
Arancine (here they are feminine), panelle, sfincione, cannoli, cassata and granita in summer.
Combine with
Cefalù, Monreale, and Taormina & Etna across the island.

Context

History in 5 minutes

Enough to make what you are looking at legible.

  1. 831

    Arab rulers take Palermo; it becomes one of the great cities of the Mediterranean.

  2. 1130

    Roger II is crowned King of Sicily; Norman Palermo builds its mosaic churches.

  3. 1897

    The Teatro Massimo opens.

  4. 2015

    Arab-Norman Palermo and the cathedrals of Cefalù and Monreale are inscribed by UNESCO.

Further out

Nearby escapes

Worth a day if you have one to spare.

Cefalù

Norman cathedral and a beach town

A Norman cathedral under a great rock, a sandy beach and a pretty old town.

1 hr by trainBeachUNESCO

Mondello

Palermo's beach

A curve of pale sand and Art Nouveau bathing pavilion under Monte Pellegrino.

30 min by busBeachSummer