Traveleriences
The Baie des Anges and the Promenade des Anglais in Nice

Nice, France

Ideal: 3 daysBest: May–Jun, Sep–OctPrice: Expensive

In 60 seconds

Nice in 60 seconds

Nice is the capital of the Riviera and the most real of its towns: a pastel old town with a daily market, a long seafront promenade, museums built around Matisse and Chagall, and a cuisine of its own that owes as much to Italy as to France. The old town and the seafront are all on foot, and a tram runs in from the airport. Go to the Cours Saleya market in the morning, eat socca and pissaladière from the stalls, and climb Castle Hill for the view over the Baie des Anges. The pebble beaches are for swimming rather than lounging. Three days lets you add Monaco, Èze or Villefranche by train or bus.

CoastRomantic

Best for

  • Food
  • Art
  • Beaches

Known for

  • The Promenade des Anglais
  • Vieux Nice
  • Socca

Skip if

You want sandy beaches — Nice's are pebbles — or a quiet August; that month is crowded and expensive.

Your match

Choose a few travel interests and we will show how well Nice fits them. Choose interests

See

Must experience

The things that would make the trip incomplete without them.

Promenade des Anglais

Seafront along the Baie des Anges

Seven kilometres of seafront for walking, cycling and swimming from the pebble beaches.

SeafrontFreeSea

Castle Hill

Park and view above the old town

Climb or take the lift to a hilltop park with the best view over the bay, the port and the roofs.

Vieux NiceFreeView

Eat

Where to eat

A short list, kept short on purpose. Each entry answers one question: when is this the right choice?

Local

Where to eat the food this city is actually known for.

La Merenda

Moderate

Niçois classics · No phone, no cards

Dominique Le Stanc, once chef at the Negresco, cooks the Niçois repertoire in a tiny room in the old town. Cash only.

Vieux NiceCash onlyNiçois

Le Bistrot des Serruriers

Moderate

Niçois bistro

A classic bistro with local influences and seasonal market produce, in the old town.

Vieux NiceBistroMarket

Le Canon

Moderate

Market-driven bistro and natural wine

A small bistro cooking from the morning's market, with a list of natural wines.

CentreMarketWine

Casual

No booking, no ceremony, reliably good.

Lavomatique

Moderate

Small plates in a former launderette

Creative shared dishes and natural wine in a converted laundromat in the old town.

Vieux NiceSmall platesWine

La Pêche à la Vigne

Inexpensive

Cellar of preserves and small plates

Salads, sandwiches and plates built on fermented and preserved artisan products, near the port.

PortDeliLunch

Special occasion

Worth planning the evening around.

Le Chantecler

Very expensive

Fine dining at the Negresco

The grand hotel's restaurant on the Promenade, with seasonal cooking in a historic dining room.

PromenadeBook aheadGrand hotel

Coffee & fika

Mornings, and the slow hour between things.

Blend

Inexpensive

Coffee and records

A cross between a record shop and a specialty coffee bar, in a corner of the old town short on good coffee.

Vieux NiceSpecialtyVinyl

Beyond the obvious

Hidden gems

Less obvious, rarely queued for, and usually the part people remember.

Musée Marc Chagall

Moderate

Chagall's biblical cycle

A museum built for Chagall's Biblical Message paintings, with a garden and his stained glass.

CimiezArtQuiet

Russian Orthodox Cathedral

Inexpensive

Onion domes on the Riviera

St Nicholas Cathedral, built for the Russian aristocrats who wintered in Nice before 1917.

TzarewitchArchitectureUnusual

Cimiez

Roman ruins and a monastery garden

Roman baths and arena, and a Franciscan monastery with a rose garden and Matisse's grave.

CimiezFreeGardens

After dark

Bars & nightlife

Rouge

Moderate

Natural wine bar

A natural-wine bar with simple seasonal plates to share, by the port.

PortSmall platesWine

Pirouette

Moderate

Neo-bistro and wine bar

A lively neo-bistro on Rue Bonaparte, with natural wines and an experimental menu.

PortLivelyWine

Chez Davia

Moderate

Old Niçois bistro

A family-run bistro serving Niçois classics and a glass of local wine in the Libération quarter.

LibérationLocalNiçois

Orientation

Neighbourhoods

How the city is actually divided, and what each part is for.

Vieux Nice

Old town and market

Narrow lanes, baroque churches and the Cours Saleya flower and food market.

Cimiez

Villas, museums and Roman ruins

The hill of belle-époque hotels, the Matisse museum and the monastery gardens.

Promenade des Anglais

Seafront and belle-époque hotels

The long curve of the bay, lined with grand hotels such as the Negresco.

Stay

Where to stay

Areas rather than hotels — pick the right one and the rest follows.

Vieux Nice

Expensive

Atmosphere on the doorstep

Small hotels and apartments in the old town; lively at night, close to the beach.

CentralCharming

The Promenade

Very expensive

Sea views

Hotels facing the Baie des Anges, from the grand to the modest.

BeachSea view

Cimiez

Expensive

Quiet and green

Residential hills of villas and gardens, a bus ride above the centre.

GardensQuiet

Practical

Know before you go

Getting in
Tram line 2 links Nice Côte d'Azur airport with the port via the centre.
Getting around
Trams and buses are run by Lignes d'Azur; regional trains follow the coast to Monaco and Italy.
Money
Euro. Some small old-town restaurants are cash only.
Beaches
Most beaches are public and free; private beach clubs rent loungers. Bring water shoes for the pebbles.

Context

History in 5 minutes

Enough to make what you are looking at legible.

  1. c. 350 BC

    Greek settlers from Marseille found Nikaia on the coast.

  2. 1860

    Nice passes from the Kingdom of Sardinia to France.

  3. 2021

    UNESCO lists Nice as the Winter Resort Town of the Riviera.

Further out

Nearby escapes

Worth a day if you have one to spare.

Villefranche-sur-Mer

Harbour village in a deep bay

A pastel harbour and sandy beach, ten minutes by train.

By regional trainEasySea

Èze

Perched medieval village

A hilltop village with an exotic garden high above the sea.

By busHalf dayViews

Monaco

Casino, palace and harbour

The principality's harbour, old town and casino, 20 minutes by train.

By regional trainGlamourHalf day