Traveleriences
Molyvos village climbing to its castle on Lesvos

Lesvos, Greece

Ideal: 4–7 daysBest: Apr–Jun, Sep–OctPrice: Moderate

In 60 seconds

Lesvos in 60 seconds

Lesvos is Greece's third-largest island, close enough to the Turkish coast to see it, and a whole world in itself: some 11 million olive trees, hot springs, salt pans full of flamingos and, in the bare west, a petrified forest of trunks turned to stone by a volcano some 20 million years ago. It was the island of the poet Sappho. Most of Greece's ouzo is made here, around Plomari, and drunk with grilled sardines from the Gulf of Kalloni. Molyvos, a village of stone houses with tiled roofs climbing to a Genoese castle, is the most beautiful place on the island; Mytilene, the capital, is a busy port town with a huge fortress and an Ottoman old quarter. Birdwatchers come in spring for the migration. A week, or at least four days with a car.

IslandOuzoVillages

Best for

  • Nature
  • Hidden gems
  • Food

Known for

  • Molyvos
  • Ouzo from Plomari
  • Petrified forest
  • Birdwatching

Skip if

You want a compact island to see in a weekend — Lesvos is large, and its sights are hours apart by car.

Your match

Choose a few travel interests and we will show how well Lesvos fits them. Choose interests

See

Must experience

The things that would make the trip incomplete without them.

Molyvos

Stone village under a castle

Cobbled lanes of stone houses with wooden balconies, a castle on top and a fishing harbour below; stay for sunset.

North LesvosCastleVillage

Petrified Forest

Inexpensive

Fossil trees turned to stone

Standing and fallen trunks in the bare hills of the west, with an excellent natural history museum at Sigri.

SigriGeologyUNESCO Geopark

Plomari & its ouzo

The ouzo capital of Greece

A seaside town of distilleries; visit one to see the copper stills and taste.

South LesvosOuzoVillage

Mytilene castle

Inexpensive

One of the largest fortresses in the Aegean

Byzantine, Genoese and Ottoman walls on a pine-covered hill above the harbour.

MytileneFortressHistory

Beyond the obvious

Hidden gems

Less obvious, rarely queued for, and usually the part people remember.

Gulf of Kalloni

Salt pans, flamingos and sardines

In spring the wetlands fill with migrating birds; in summer the gulf's small sardines are grilled in every taverna.

KalloniBirdsFood

Orientation

Neighbourhoods

How the city is actually divided, and what each part is for.

Mytilene

The island's busy capital

Harbour cafés, an old market street and neoclassical mansions.

Stay

Where to stay

Areas rather than hotels — pick the right one and the rest follows.

Molyvos & Petra

Moderate

The prettiest base

Village hotels near the sea in the north.

BeachVillage

Practical

Know before you go

Getting in
Flights from Athens and Thessaloniki; ferries from Piraeus and from Ayvalık in Turkey.
Getting around
A car is necessary; the island is large and buses are few.
When to go
April and May for birds and flowers; June and September for the sea.
Taste locally
Ouzo, sardines from Kalloni, ladotyri cheese, olive oil and kiskek.

Context

History in 5 minutes

Enough to make what you are looking at legible.

  1. c. 600 BC

    The poet Sappho lives and writes on the island.

  2. 1355–1462

    The Genoese Gattilusio family rule Lesvos and strengthen its castles.

  3. 1912

    Lesvos joins Greece.

Further out

Nearby escapes

Worth a day if you have one to spare.

Chios

The mastic island

Chios has its own guide.

3 hrs by ferryIsland