Traveleriences
The jagged Odle peaks above the meadows and church of Val di Funes

Bolzano & the Dolomites, Italy

Ideal: 4–6 daysBest: Jun–Sep, Dec–MarPrice: Expensive

In 60 seconds

Bolzano & the Dolomites in 60 seconds

The Dolomites are the most dramatic mountains in Italy: pale limestone towers that glow pink at sunset, rising straight out of green meadows — a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Bolzano, the capital of South Tyrol, is the gateway, a bilingual city of arcaded streets, Tyrolean inns and Italian espresso, where the South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology keeps Ötzi, the 5,300-year-old man found in a glacier in 1991. From the city, cable cars and valley roads lead to the Renon plateau, the vast meadows of the Alpe di Siusi under the Sassolungo, the Odle peaks of Val di Funes and Seceda above Ortisei. Walk hut to hut in summer and eat canederli, speck and apple strudel; ski in winter. Food here is Alpine and Italian at once. Four days or more.

MountainsUNESCOSkiing

Best for

  • Hiking
  • Nature
  • Food

Known for

  • The Dolomites
  • Ötzi the Iceman
  • Alpe di Siusi
  • Val di Funes

Skip if

You want Italy of piazzas and Renaissance art — South Tyrol feels Austrian, and the reason to come is the mountains.

Your match

Choose a few travel interests and we will show how well Bolzano & the Dolomites fits them. Choose interests

See

Must experience

The things that would make the trip incomplete without them.

Alpe di Siusi

Europe's largest high-alpine meadow

Rolling pastures under the Sassolungo and Sciliar; ride the cable car up from Siusi or Ortisei and walk between huts.

Seiser AlmHikingMeadows

Val di Funes

A valley below the Odle peaks

The little churches of Santa Maddalena and San Giovanni in Ranui against the jagged Odle — the Dolomites' classic picture.

VillnößHikingView

Seceda

Expensive

A tilted ridge above Val Gardena

Cable cars from Ortisei rise to a grassy ridge that drops away in a sheer edge towards the Odle spires.

OrtiseiCable carView

Eat

Where to eat

A short list, kept short on purpose. Each entry answers one question: when is this the right choice?

More places to eat

Too few picks yet for their own heading, so they share this list.

Beyond the obvious

Hidden gems

Less obvious, rarely queued for, and usually the part people remember.

Renon plateau & earth pyramids

A sunny plateau above Bolzano

A cable car and a little narrow-gauge tram climb from the city to meadows, villages and strange earth pillars with stones on top.

RenonCable carWalks

Orientation

Neighbourhoods

How the city is actually divided, and what each part is for.

Bolzano old town

Arcades and Piazza Walther

The Laubengasse arcades, a daily fruit market and the Gothic cathedral; a Christmas market in December.

Stay

Where to stay

Areas rather than hotels — pick the right one and the rest follows.

Bolzano

Expensive

City base with trains

Good for a first night and rainy days; the mountains are a bus or drive away.

RestaurantsTrains

Val Gardena & Val di Funes

Expensive

Mountain hotels and farm stays

Stay in the valleys to be on the trails early.

HikingSkiing

Practical

Know before you go

Getting in
Trains from Verona reach Bolzano in about 1½ hours and from Innsbruck in about 2.
Getting around
Buses and cable cars reach most valleys; a car gives freedom, but summer roads and car parks fill early.
Languages
German and Italian are both official; Ladin is spoken in some valleys. Place names come in two or three versions.
When to go
June to September for hiking (huts open from mid-June), December to March for skiing.
Taste locally
Speck, canederli, schlutzkrapfen, apple strudel, Lagrein and Gewürztraminer.

Context

History in 5 minutes

Enough to make what you are looking at legible.

  1. c. 3300 BC

    Ötzi dies high in the Ötztal Alps; his body is found in the ice in 1991.

  2. 1919

    South Tyrol passes from Austria to Italy after the First World War.

  3. 2009

    The Dolomites are inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage list.

Further out

Nearby escapes

Worth a day if you have one to spare.

Tre Cime di Lavaredo

Three great towers in the eastern Dolomites

A loop walk round the three north faces, one of the finest in the Alps.

2 hrs by carHikingIcon