Traveleriences
Spectacular jagged volcanic peaks of Dyrfjöll towering above the coastal meadows of Borgarfjörður Eystri

Borgarfjörður Eystri, Iceland

Ideal: 2–3 daysBest: May–Aug (puffins nest mid-May to mid-August)Price: Expensive

In 60 seconds

Borgarfjörður Eystri in 60 seconds

Tucked away at the end of scenic mountain road 94 in the northeastern Eastfjords, Borgarfjörður Eystri is a remote paradise of fewer than a hundred residents. It is celebrated globally for Hafnarhólmi—the most accessible puffin breeding colony in Iceland—the legendary elf hill Álfaborg, painter Jóhannes Kjarval's heritage, and the dramatic mountain door of Dyrfjöll.

Folklore

Best for

  • Wildlife
  • Nature
  • Hiking
  • Mountains

Known for

  • Hafnarhólmi Puffin Marina
  • Álfaborg (City of the Elves)
  • Dyrfjöll mountain door trek
  • Víknaslóðir Deserted Inlets Trail
  • Bakkagerði Church altarpiece by Kjarval

Skip if

You are uncomfortable driving unpaved or winding mountain passes; Route 94 crosses high gravel terrain.

Your match

Choose a few travel interests and we will show how well Borgarfjörður Eystri fits them. Choose interests

See

Must experience

The things that would make the trip incomplete without them.

Hafnarhólmi Puffin Colony

Protected volcanic rock promontory and wooden boardwalk system inside the small boat marina where 10,000 pairs of puffins nest

Walk along timber stairways within arm's reach of nesting puffins without disturbing their burrows.

Hafnarhólmi

Álfaborg (The Elves' City)

Prominent rocky hill rising right beside the village of Bakkagerði, celebrated in folklore as the imperial palace of the Queen of the Icelandic Elves

Climb the marked trail to the top for panoramic views over the village, fjord and ocean.

Bakkagerði

Dyrfjöll Mountains & The Door (Víknaslóðir)

Colossal 1,136-metre volcanic mountain massif breached by a monumental natural vertical gap known as The Door (Dyr)

Embark on an exhilarating day hike from the pass up to the surreal mountain door fissure.

Dyrfjöll

Eat

Where to eat

A short list, kept short on purpose. Each entry answers one question: when is this the right choice?

Casual

No booking, no ceremony, reliably good.

Álfacafé (Elf Cafe)

Moderate

Heartwarming rustic cafe-restaurant on the main street serving famous fish soup, local lamb and home-baked bread

Feast on rich seafood soup and dark rye bread with smoked trout.

Bakkagerði

Blábjörg Restaurant (Borgarfjörður)

Expensive

Refined spa hotel restaurant featuring floor-to-ceiling glass windows framing ocean and mountain views

Dine on local arctic char, lamb fillet and Icelandic craft beer.

Bakkagerði

More places to eat

Too few picks yet for their own heading, so they share this list.

Hafnarhólmi Marina Kiosk (Summer)

Inexpensive

Seaside cafe overlooking the puffin island and marina serving fish chowder, coffee and cakes

Enjoy fresh waffles while watching puffins circle above with beaks full of sand eels.

Hafnarhólmi

Kaffi Bakkagerði

Inexpensive

Cozy village spot serving freshly brewed espresso, Icelandic kleinur and hot chocolate

Warm up after a coastal hike with a slice of rhubarb tart.

Bakkagerði

Beyond the obvious

Hidden gems

Less obvious, rarely queued for, and usually the part people remember.

Lindarbakki Turf Cottage

Charming traditional turf-roofed red cottage in the center of Bakkagerði dating from 1899, with stone cellars and flowering gardens

Photograph one of Iceland's few remaining continuously inhabited turf dwellings.

Bakkagerði

Bakkagerðiskirkja & Kjarval Altarpiece

Historic 1901 village church holding a famous altarpiece painted by master artist Jóhannes Kjarval depicting Christ on Álfaborg

Admire the painting where the Sermon on the Mount is set directly against local Eastfjord peaks.

Bakkagerði

Víknaslóðir (Trails of the Inlets)

Network of premier multi-day wilderness trails leading south through deserted red rhyolite fjords and deserted fishing hamlets

Trek between Urðarhólar boulder fields and untouched pebble bays.

Víknaslóðir

After dark

Bars & nightlife

Bræðslan Concert Venue & Bar

Moderate

Historic converted fish factory that hosts Iceland's beloved annual indie-rock summer music festival Bræðslan

Mingle with musicians and locals over cold craft beer in an intimate rustic venue.

Bakkagerði

Orientation

Neighbourhoods

How the city is actually divided, and what each part is for.

Bakkagerði Village

Compact coastal settlement surrounded by green meadows, elf hills and mountain amphitheaters

Walk quiet roads between colourful iron-clad homes and flowering gardens.

Bakkagerði

Hafnarhólmi Marina

Sheltered boat harbour 5 kilometres out of town with wooden piers, lighthouse and puffin rocks

Breathe salty ocean air surrounded by squawking seabirds and tranquil waters.

Hafnarhólmi

Stay

Where to stay

Areas rather than hotels — pick the right one and the rest follows.

Blábjörg Resort & Spa

Boutique waterfront guesthouse with outdoor geothermal hot tubs and saunas facing the open fjord

Exceptional luxury relaxation and midnight sun viewing.

Village Guesthouses & Cottages

Cozy traditional guesthouses scattered throughout the peaceful village of Bakkagerði

Immediate access to hiking trailheads and village cafes.

Practical

Know before you go

Getting There
Accessible via Route 94 from Egilsstaðir (70 km); the road crosses a high coastal pass with paved and gravel sections.
Puffin Season
Puffins arrive reliably around May 15 and migrate to open ocean by August 15–20.

Context

History in 5 minutes

Enough to make what you are looking at legible.

  1. 1800s

    Settled as a small inshore fishing station and trading hub for the isolated northeastern fjords.

  2. 1914

    Famed painter Jóhannes Sveinsson Kjarval spends summers here, immortalizing the local landscape in masterworks.

Further out

Nearby escapes

Worth a day if you have one to spare.

Stórurð (The Giant Boulders)

Surreal mountain basin filled with colossal meadow-scattered boulders and turquoise glacial meltwater pools

Trek into one of Iceland's most awe-inspiring hidden geological wonders.

25 min south

Egilsstaðir & Vök Baths

Capital of East Iceland featuring floating geothermal pools on the calm waters of Lake Urriðavatn

Soak in hot geothermal water pools floating directly on a crystal-clear subarctic lake.

1 hour southwest