Traveleriences
The titanium curves of the Guggenheim Museum on the river in Bilbao

Bilbao & the Basque Coast, Spain

Ideal: 3 daysBest: May–OctPrice: Expensive

In 60 seconds

Bilbao & the Basque Coast in 60 seconds

Bilbao was a grimy port of shipyards and steelworks until Frank Gehry's titanium Guggenheim opened on the river in 1997 and turned the city around; today the riverside is a promenade and the industrial grit has been polished into one of Spain's most liveable cities. Spend a morning with the Guggenheim's huge steel sculptures, then cross to the Casco Viejo, the old town of Seven Streets, for a txikiteo — a glass and a pintxo in one bar, then the next. Basque is spoken alongside Spanish, and the food is serious. The coast nearby is wild and green: the hermitage of San Juan de Gaztelugatxe on its rock, reached by 241 steps, the surf of Mundaka, and the fishing town of Bermeo. San Sebastián is an hour away. Three days.

ArtArchitecture

Best for

  • Food
  • Coast
  • Design
  • Weekend

Known for

  • Guggenheim Museum
  • Pintxos
  • San Juan de Gaztelugatxe
  • Casco Viejo

Skip if

You want guaranteed sun — the Basque coast is green because it rains, and summers are mild rather than hot.

Your match

Choose a few travel interests and we will show how well Bilbao & the Basque Coast fits them. Choose interests

See

Must experience

The things that would make the trip incomplete without them.

Casco Viejo & Plaza Nueva

The Seven Streets and the arcaded square

The medieval core of the city: the market of La Ribera on the river and the neoclassical Plaza Nueva ringed with pintxo bars.

Casco ViejoOld TownPintxos

San Juan de Gaztelugatxe

A hermitage on a rock in the sea

A stone causeway and 241 steps lead up to the chapel on its islet; ring the bell three times. Free tickets must be booked in summer.

BermeoBook aheadCoast

Eat

Where to eat

A short list, kept short on purpose. Each entry answers one question: when is this the right choice?

More places to eat

Too few picks yet for their own heading, so they share this list.

La Viña del Ensanche

Expensive

Ham and wine bar since 1927

The place for hand-carved ibérico and a few perfect plates in the 19th-century new town.

EnsancheClassicJamón

Gure Toki

Moderate

Award-winning pintxo bar on Plaza Nueva

Hot pintxos cooked to order by the second generation of the family that opened it in 1982.

Casco ViejoHot pintxosPintxos

Beyond the obvious

Hidden gems

Less obvious, rarely queued for, and usually the part people remember.

Vizcaya Bridge

The world's oldest transporter bridge · UNESCO

A gondola hung from an iron frame of 1893 still carries cars and people across the river mouth; walk the top deck for the view.

PortugaleteEngineeringUNESCO

Orientation

Neighbourhoods

How the city is actually divided, and what each part is for.

Casco Viejo

The old town of the Seven Streets

Market, cathedral and the densest concentration of pintxo bars in the city.

Abando & the Ensanche

The grand 19th-century new town

Wide avenues, shops and some of the city's best bars and restaurants, between the station and the Guggenheim.

Stay

Where to stay

Areas rather than hotels — pick the right one and the rest follows.

Abando or the Casco Viejo

Expensive

Hotels near the river

Everything is walkable along the river; the metro, designed by Norman Foster, covers the rest.

MetroWalkable

Practical

Know before you go

Getting in
Bilbao airport is 20 minutes from the centre by bus; ferries arrive from Portsmouth and Rosslare at nearby Santurtzi.
Getting around
Walk, or use the metro and tram; local Euskotren trains run to the coast.
Pintxos etiquette
Pintxos are paid for, not free with a drink; take one or two per bar and move on.
Languages
Basque (Euskara) and Spanish are both official; signs are in both.
Taste locally
Pintxos, bacalao al pil-pil, txakoli, Idiazabal cheese and Basque cheesecake.

Context

History in 5 minutes

Enough to make what you are looking at legible.

  1. 1300

    Bilbao is founded as a port town on the Nervión.

  2. 1893

    The Vizcaya transporter bridge opens at the river mouth.

  3. 1997

    The Guggenheim Museum opens, and the city's regeneration begins.

Further out

Nearby escapes

Worth a day if you have one to spare.

San Sebastián

Pintxos and the Concha beach

San Sebastián has its own guide.

1 hr 15 min by busBeachFood

Mundaka & Urdaibai

Surf town and biosphere reserve

A famous left-hand wave at the mouth of the Urdaibai estuary, a UNESCO biosphere reserve of marshes and birds.

50 min by trainNatureSurf