Traveleriences
Painted wooden gables and historic townhouses along Hauptgasse in Appenzell

Appenzell & Alpstein, Switzerland

Ideal: 2–3 daysBest: May–OctPrice: Expensive

In 60 seconds

Appenzell & Alpstein in 60 seconds

Nestled amid rolling green pre-alpine hills beneath the dramatic limestone crags of the Alpstein massif, Appenzell is Switzerland's most fiercely traditional corner. Painted wooden gables line the village lanes, direct democracy lives on at the open-air Landsgemeinde, and hiking trails lead past prehistoric caves to Berggasthaus Äscher, an inn built directly into a sheer vertical cliff.

Mountains

Best for

  • Hiking
  • Tradition
  • Nature

Known for

  • Äscher cliffside guesthouse
  • Painted Hauptgasse townhouses
  • Appenzeller spicy cheese

Skip if

You are afraid of sheer drop-offs or narrow mountain ledges; some of the most celebrated hikes in the Alpstein traverse steep limestone ridges.

Your match

Choose a few travel interests and we will show how well Appenzell & Alpstein fits them. Choose interests

See

Must experience

The things that would make the trip incomplete without them.

Appenzell Hauptgasse & Landsgemeindeplatz

Painted timber townhouses and the open-air direct democracy square

Admire colourful folk murals on curved wooden gables and stand on the square where citizens still vote by open show of hands.

Appenzell DorfArchitectureFree

Eat

Where to eat

A short list, kept short on purpose. Each entry answers one question: when is this the right choice?

Local

Where to eat the food this city is actually known for.

Gasthaus Hof

Moderate

Rustic centuries-old tavern serving traditional butcher fare

Sample local Siedwurst boiled sausage served with sweet Appenzeller cider mustard and potato salad beneath heavy wooden beams.

HauptgasseHeartyHistoric

More places to eat

Too few picks yet for their own heading, so they share this list.

Bäckerei-Café Drei Eidgenossen

Inexpensive

Artisan bakery home of genuine Appenzeller Biber gingerbread

Pick up freshly baked Biber, a soft spiced gingerbread cake filled with pure sweet almond paste and embossed with folk motifs.

HauptgasseGingerbreadPastry

Beyond the obvious

Hidden gems

Less obvious, rarely queued for, and usually the part people remember.

Säntis Summit

Expensive

Highest peak in the Alpstein at 2,502m · Six-country panorama

Take the cable car from Schwägalp to stand on summit viewing terraces overlooking Switzerland, Germany, Austria, Liechtenstein, France and Italy.

SchwägalpCable carPanoramic

After dark

Bars & nightlife

Orientation

Neighbourhoods

How the city is actually divided, and what each part is for.

Appenzell Dorf

Pedestrian village centre filled with craft shops and painted facades

A living open-air museum where cobblers, wood carvers and embroidery artisans maintain centuries-old guilds.

Wasserauen & Schwende

Mountain valley floor and trailhead into the high Alpstein peaks

Green dairy pastures surrounded by towering limestone summits, serving as the departure point for Ebenalp and Seealpsee.

Stay

Where to stay

Areas rather than hotels — pick the right one and the rest follows.

Appenzell Village

Expensive

Stay right in the painted town centre close to restaurants and shops

Traditional wooden family-run hotels where you wake up to church chimes and fresh bakery aromas.

HistoricWalkable

Weissbad & Schwende

Expensive

Peaceful countryside inns and wellness resorts near the trailheads

Idyllic pastoral settings surrounded by cow pastures with immediate access to mountain railways.

NatureWellness

Practical

Know before you go

Appenzell Holiday Card
Guests staying three or more nights at participating accommodations receive a free card granting free mountain railways, museums and local trains.
Getting in
The scenic Appenzeller Bahnen narrow-gauge trains link Gossau and St. Gallen directly with Appenzell village and Wasserauen.
Landsgemeinde
Held every year on the last Sunday of April, thousands of citizens gather on the town square to vote on laws and elect judges by sword-carrying tradition.
Hiking safety
The Alpstein has limestone karst terrain; wear sturdy hiking boots and carry walking poles when descending from Äscher.

Context

History in 5 minutes

Enough to make what you are looking at legible.

  1. 1513

    Appenzell joins the Swiss Confederation as the thirteenth member canton.

  2. 1597

    Religious tensions cause the canton to divide peacefully into Appenzell Innerrhoden (Catholic) and Appenzell Ausserrhoden (Protestant).

Further out

Nearby escapes

Worth a day if you have one to spare.