Traveleriences
Traditional white-uniformed cheese porters of the Kaasdragers Gilde carrying cheese barrows at the Alkmaar Waagplein

Alkmaar & North Holland, Netherlands

Ideal: 1–2 daysBest: Apr–SepPrice: Moderate

In 60 seconds

Alkmaar & North Holland in 60 seconds

Situated between the North Sea coast and the vast polders of North Holland, Alkmaar is celebrated across the globe for its four-hundred-year-old Friday Cheese Market. From April to September, the Waagplein fills with thousands of golden cheese wheels, tested and traded under the watchful eye of the historic Kaasdragers Gilde (Cheese Porters' Guild), whose white-suited carriers in colourful straw hats jog with wooden barrows. Beyond the market spectacle, Alkmaar is a graceful canal town boasting the monumental Grote Sint-Laurenskerk, hidden almshouses, and the Dutch Cheese Museum. Just to the west lie the highest and widest coastal sand dunes in the country at Schoorl, alongside the leafy pine-shaded artists' haven of Bergen.

Cheese MarketCanalsGuildsHistoryDunesCoast

Best for

    Known for

    • Alkmaar Cheese Market
    • The Waag (Weigh House)
    • Kaasdragers guild
    • Grote Sint-Laurenskerk
    • Schoorlse Duinen

    Skip if

    You are looking for late-night metropolitan nightlife; Alkmaar is a classic northern trading town.

    Your match

    Choose a few travel interests and we will show how well Alkmaar & North Holland fits them. Choose interests

    See

    Must experience

    The things that would make the trip incomplete without them.

    Eat

    Where to eat

    A short list, kept short on purpose. Each entry answers one question: when is this the right choice?

    More places to eat

    Too few picks yet for their own heading, so they share this list.

    Restaurant 't Fnidsen

    Expensive

    Culinary fine dining with extensive wine cellars in the historic Fnidsen quarter

    Refined modern European dining highlighting North Holland sea fish and local farm cheeses in an intimate former warehouse.

    FnidsenFine diningHistoric alley

    SOEPP Café & Vintage

    Inexpensive

    Colourful organic soup café and vintage furniture shop in the historic centre

    Enjoy fresh organic soups, coffee and vegan cakes where virtually every vintage chair and teacup is also for sale.

    HekelstraatLunchOrganic

    Beyond the obvious

    Hidden gems

    Less obvious, rarely queued for, and usually the part people remember.

    Hofje van Wildeman

    Peaceful 1714 almshouse courtyard with a Roman-style statue of a wild man over the gate

    Step through the ornamental gate off the Oudegracht into a silent, floral quadrangle of 24 tiny historic cottages.

    OudegrachtAlmshouseCourtyard

    Bergen Artists' Village

    Leafy woodland village famous for the Bergen School of expressionist painters

    A charming village of thatched villas and art galleries shaded by centuries-old beech trees just behind the sea dunes.

    BergenArtExpressionism

    After dark

    Bars & nightlife

    Bierkaffee De Boom

    Inexpensive

    Traditional Dutch beer bar set inside an 18th-century brewery warehouse

    Sit on the floating canal barge moored out front or explore the National Beer Museum housed directly upstairs.

    HouttilBeer museumCanal barge

    Orientation

    Neighbourhoods

    How the city is actually divided, and what each part is for.

    D'Oude Stad & Fnidsen

    Atmospheric old merchant quarter filled with cobbled alleys and craft shops

    Wander through the narrow 17th-century lanes of Fnidsen, Hekelstraat and Appelsteeg for indie boutiques and cheese delis.

    Stay

    Where to stay

    Areas rather than hotels — pick the right one and the rest follows.

    Alkmaar Old Town

    Moderate

    Inside the canal moat, walkable to the Waagplein and train station

    Ideal for walking to the Friday morning cheese market early before the day-tripper rush.

    CanalsCentral

    Practical

    Know before you go

    Getting in
    Direct Intercity trains run from Amsterdam Centraal to Alkmaar in just 35 minutes.
    Cheese Market timing
    The Cheese Market takes place on Friday mornings from April to September; arrive in good time for the best views.
    Bicycle rental
    Rent a bicycle at Alkmaar station to easily combine the town canals with the coastal dunes of Schoorl.
    Taste locally
    Aged North Holland Gouda cheese (Noord-Hollandse Gouda, PDO) known for its distinctive creaminess from coastal salt pastures.

    Context

    History in 5 minutes

    Enough to make what you are looking at legible.

    1. 1254

      William II, Count of Holland, grants city status to Alkmaar.

    2. 1573

      Alkmaar successfully withstands a Spanish siege, giving rise to the Dutch proverb 'Victory begins at Alkmaar'.

    3. 1622

      The official Cheese Porters' Guild (Kaasdragers Gilde) is formally constituted.

    Further out

    Nearby escapes

    Worth a day if you have one to spare.

    Bergen aan Zee Beach

    Wide North Sea sandy beach with sea breezes and dune paths

    Pedal through the pine woods of Bergen straight to the North Sea waves and wide open beaches.

    25 min by bus or bikeBeachDunes